Mojave CA - Thursday
We woke a little later this morning, after the walking and late night of Las Vegas and the in and out of the Jeep in roaring temperatures yesterday I think we were tired. For some unidentifiable reason we both really liked this place even if the Internet didn’t work; it seems that it 
comes into the lodge in a guest room and they keep pulling the power out :o
Coffee from the pot in reception went down well and we packed the car. These lodges can be great if your room is convenient to the car rather than dragging in through reception and all over hotels.
We drove 200 yards down the road to the Stagecoach Casino where we ate last night and had breakfast of pancakes, sausage, eggs (sunny side up) and bacon with a pot of coffee. It is the first time all holiday we’ve felt like a proper breakfast and with lunchtime likely to be in Death Valley, stocking up now seems a good idea so we can miss or just nibble lunch. The Stagecoach is a combination lodge, hotel, casino and cafe and we got the pass code for their Wi-Fi Internet from reception and I stood in the casino bar checking mail and uploading mini blogs to keep it alive.
Beatty is a tidy little town which has grasped the nettle to make something of itself. Whereas most small backwater towns we have passed throughout our journey tend to be somewhat decrepit, this place had character. It is still spread out and nothing much here but the RV parks have grass and are neat rather than looking like junkyards and the Motel/lodge we stayed in as well as others all look neat and painted. We found it as a result of a leaflet the town has got together and they could become a gateway to Death Valley if they keep it up.
We set off North along the valley parallel to Death Valley and then turn West toward the Northern end of Death Valley. At the moment we are at 4,000 ft and the fields are green and the air cooler but we descend over 23 miles to about 700ft. The rocks and hills are flowing and for some intangible reason ‘friendly’.
Approaching the valley, we are suddenly aware of a mass of green foliage, evidently the result of springs emerging from the rock strata and the clock tower of Scotty’s Castle appears. This Moorish country house was built early 20th century by an Insurance millionaire from the East but was primarily lived in by a showman and bit of a con-artist called Scottie who had originally claimed to have found a gold mine to attract investment. The Insurance guy suspected a con and came out but loved the area and was entertained by Scottie and built the place as a holiday home but supported Scottie living there as he found him entertaining. We only visited the outside but it is wonderful for its very improbability.
Along the sort side valleys there are numerous patches of green where springs must be rising.
We diverted to Ubehebe Crater where we stood at the rim faced with a howling wind erupting in all directions from the centre of the crater. By now, the temperature is rising and it around midday and the temperature in the heart of the crater created by a massive volcanic explosion must be extraordinary. The winds feel like they are straight out of an oven door and are convection created. Away from the crater there is no wind.
Returning to the road, we turned South along Death Valley. A little way down, we turned off to visit a signed canyon. The road was two way up to the edge of the mountains which border the valley then we knew there was a one way road coming into the valley at that point. As we approached the rocks, there was no sign of a gap then, Indiana Jones temple of Doom like, three dimensions started to appear and the track wound into the cliff following a series of tight bends such that 30 yards in you would not know you were anywhere near the end.
We paused here for yet another drink of water; you really do need it, the humidity is very low and though the sun feels like it is burning into your skin, you are not short of breath of heavy as in humid heat. It is dangerous because you could stay unprotected too long and you really would burn severely. We pulled out the thermometer and left it in the sun for a while and registered 140 degrees F / 60 degrees C.
In this Northern section of Death Valley we remain at between 500 and 1000 Ft. What the temperature must be down at Badwater 200 feet below sea level is unthinkable. (note: August is not the recommended time to visit Death Valley but by Hell it’s an experience) [appropriate use of ‘hell’ there]
Continuing along the centre of the Valley towards the settlement of Stove Pipe Wells, there is a rough un-metalled track leading about ½ a mile to the west though it was no sign indicating why. As another chance to play with our Jeep, we head across creating a film set dust cloud behind and arrive at a stone marker indicating the site of the “Stove Pipe Well”. Out here in the middle of the valley and close to the sand dunes, is a well dating back to Native American trails. It is apparently the only water source in the middle of the routes and used to be marked by a stove pipe stuck into to the top which would be searched out by passing mule trains. The well is capped but has what it says is the original stove pipe standing proud.
We decided to take a couple of photos here and set the camera up on auto intending to sit on the stone that surrounds the well. When we came to sit, we could only manage a few seconds and when we leant toward each other we both grabbed our hands back from the stone which you could have fried an egg on. Next attempt was by the Jeep where I made the mistake of leaning on the bonnet with no sleeves – damn that’s hot!
In the middle of the Valley we backtrack a few miles of last night’s route before heading West on the 190 through Stovepipe Wells. On the way, we pass stereotype desert sand hills. These are not typical of Death Valley which is more about rock formations and colours and salt flats than sand. The dunes, which are quite beautiful remain in one location where the winds centre the sand from all over changing shape but never moving.
We stop for a while crunching Crisps (salt) and gulping more water down. It is approaching 4 pm as we leave the valley heading upwards gaining height rapidly.
We have enjoyed Death Valley for which we both had low expectations. The Southern section is low or below sea level and is the most odd whilst the Northern section was mainly above 600ft.
Experiencing them over 2 days we both agree would be the best, the heat would become oppressive and viewing fatigue would set in if attempted in a single session.
We climb 5000 ft out of Death Valley and run through pleasant mountain scenery winding around switchbacks. On the high ground, Joshua Trees grow all around pocking up out of the baron landscape. These are a sort of cross between cactus and palm tree – we must look up what they actually are.. sometime.
Eventually dropping into the flat valley in the east we are faced by the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada which are apparently snow capped for much of the years. We turn South West and run parallel to them for the 100 miles or so that we manage for 7pm when we search out
accommodation in Mojave and hotchpotch bunch of small hotels, garages and fast food joints run down one side of the road and a railway down the other. Its near to a major road crossroads and is no picture.
For the last time, we go to the office and ask,”Can we get a room here tonight?”, the answer is yes, the price is low and the Internet works.
Denney’s for food and then out comfortable room for a shower and some authoring.
Statistics: Miles today: 297 miles; Miles so far: 4,882; Fuel added so far: 250 gals; States: Nevada, California; Time Zone: Pacific (UK-8)
We woke a little later this morning, after the walking and late night of Las Vegas and the in and out of the Jeep in roaring temperatures yesterday I think we were tired. For some unidentifiable reason we both really liked this place even if the Internet didn’t work; it seems that it 
comes into the lodge in a guest room and they keep pulling the power out :oCoffee from the pot in reception went down well and we packed the car. These lodges can be great if your room is convenient to the car rather than dragging in through reception and all over hotels.
We drove 200 yards down the road to the Stagecoach Casino where we ate last night and had breakfast of pancakes, sausage, eggs (sunny side up) and bacon with a pot of coffee. It is the first time all holiday we’ve felt like a proper breakfast and with lunchtime likely to be in Death Valley, stocking up now seems a good idea so we can miss or just nibble lunch. The Stagecoach is a combination lodge, hotel, casino and cafe and we got the pass code for their Wi-Fi Internet from reception and I stood in the casino bar checking mail and uploading mini blogs to keep it alive.
Beatty is a tidy little town which has grasped the nettle to make something of itself. Whereas most small backwater towns we have passed throughout our journey tend to be somewhat decrepit, this place had character. It is still spread out and nothing much here but the RV parks have grass and are neat rather than looking like junkyards and the Motel/lodge we stayed in as well as others all look neat and painted. We found it as a result of a leaflet the town has got together and they could become a gateway to Death Valley if they keep it up.
We set off North along the valley parallel to Death Valley and then turn West toward the Northern end of Death Valley. At the moment we are at 4,000 ft and the fields are green and the air cooler but we descend over 23 miles to about 700ft. The rocks and hills are flowing and for some intangible reason ‘friendly’.
Approaching the valley, we are suddenly aware of a mass of green foliage, evidently the result of springs emerging from the rock strata and the clock tower of Scotty’s Castle appears. This Moorish country house was built early 20th century by an Insurance millionaire from the East but was primarily lived in by a showman and bit of a con-artist called Scottie who had originally claimed to have found a gold mine to attract investment. The Insurance guy suspected a con and came out but loved the area and was entertained by Scottie and built the place as a holiday home but supported Scottie living there as he found him entertaining. We only visited the outside but it is wonderful for its very improbability.
Along the sort side valleys there are numerous patches of green where springs must be rising.We diverted to Ubehebe Crater where we stood at the rim faced with a howling wind erupting in all directions from the centre of the crater. By now, the temperature is rising and it around midday and the temperature in the heart of the crater created by a massive volcanic explosion must be extraordinary. The winds feel like they are straight out of an oven door and are convection created. Away from the crater there is no wind.
Returning to the road, we turned South along Death Valley. A little way down, we turned off to visit a signed canyon. The road was two way up to the edge of the mountains which border the valley then we knew there was a one way road coming into the valley at that point. As we approached the rocks, there was no sign of a gap then, Indiana Jones temple of Doom like, three dimensions started to appear and the track wound into the cliff following a series of tight bends such that 30 yards in you would not know you were anywhere near the end.
We paused here for yet another drink of water; you really do need it, the humidity is very low and though the sun feels like it is burning into your skin, you are not short of breath of heavy as in humid heat. It is dangerous because you could stay unprotected too long and you really would burn severely. We pulled out the thermometer and left it in the sun for a while and registered 140 degrees F / 60 degrees C.In this Northern section of Death Valley we remain at between 500 and 1000 Ft. What the temperature must be down at Badwater 200 feet below sea level is unthinkable. (note: August is not the recommended time to visit Death Valley but by Hell it’s an experience) [appropriate use of ‘hell’ there]
Continuing along the centre of the Valley towards the settlement of Stove Pipe Wells, there is a rough un-metalled track leading about ½ a mile to the west though it was no sign indicating why. As another chance to play with our Jeep, we head across creating a film set dust cloud behind and arrive at a stone marker indicating the site of the “Stove Pipe Well”. Out here in the middle of the valley and close to the sand dunes, is a well dating back to Native American trails. It is apparently the only water source in the middle of the routes and used to be marked by a stove pipe stuck into to the top which would be searched out by passing mule trains. The well is capped but has what it says is the original stove pipe standing proud.We decided to take a couple of photos here and set the camera up on auto intending to sit on the stone that surrounds the well. When we came to sit, we could only manage a few seconds and when we leant toward each other we both grabbed our hands back from the stone which you could have fried an egg on. Next attempt was by the Jeep where I made the mistake of leaning on the bonnet with no sleeves – damn that’s hot!
In the middle of the Valley we backtrack a few miles of last night’s route before heading West on the 190 through Stovepipe Wells. On the way, we pass stereotype desert sand hills. These are not typical of Death Valley which is more about rock formations and colours and salt flats than sand. The dunes, which are quite beautiful remain in one location where the winds centre the sand from all over changing shape but never moving.We stop for a while crunching Crisps (salt) and gulping more water down. It is approaching 4 pm as we leave the valley heading upwards gaining height rapidly.
We have enjoyed Death Valley for which we both had low expectations. The Southern section is low or below sea level and is the most odd whilst the Northern section was mainly above 600ft.
Experiencing them over 2 days we both agree would be the best, the heat would become oppressive and viewing fatigue would set in if attempted in a single session.We climb 5000 ft out of Death Valley and run through pleasant mountain scenery winding around switchbacks. On the high ground, Joshua Trees grow all around pocking up out of the baron landscape. These are a sort of cross between cactus and palm tree – we must look up what they actually are.. sometime.
Eventually dropping into the flat valley in the east we are faced by the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada which are apparently snow capped for much of the years. We turn South West and run parallel to them for the 100 miles or so that we manage for 7pm when we search out
accommodation in Mojave and hotchpotch bunch of small hotels, garages and fast food joints run down one side of the road and a railway down the other. Its near to a major road crossroads and is no picture.For the last time, we go to the office and ask,”Can we get a room here tonight?”, the answer is yes, the price is low and the Internet works.
Denney’s for food and then out comfortable room for a shower and some authoring.
Statistics: Miles today: 297 miles; Miles so far: 4,882; Fuel added so far: 250 gals; States: Nevada, California; Time Zone: Pacific (UK-8)
No comments:
Post a Comment